Cinque is a bit of a let down. The menu is extremely large - there is two pages worth of salads, risottos, pastas, quesadillas, burgers, seafood, steak and all the breakfast staples as well as another eight specials. I first set my eyes on dining at Cinque after a journo meeting. I only had time for coffee, but decided I must come back after one glance at the menu (I ended up visiting Cinque the two following weekends). Such things as mocha bread with vanilla marscarpone ($5.90), seared scallop and sauteed leek risotto with parsley and lemon zest ($19) and grilled Atlantic salmon with cauliflower puree, green peas and dill ($23) just pull you in. But, to be honest, the meals I ordered, on two separate visits, in no way met my expectations.
The first visit was a catch up lunch with a friend I hadn't seen in yonks. We both ended up ordering omelettes. I go for "The Red" (chorizo, potato, tomato and basil with toast) - the mention of chorizo forced this choice on me - and he chose "Bourke" (smoked bacon, butter mushrooms, tomato and toast). Both were $12.90. Mind you, this was after a pushy waitress had asked us whether we were ready to order about five times, and had then continued to make herself scarce when we had finally decided. The omelette was a real let down. First of all, the eggs were not fluffy to the slightest, but rather a thin, overcooked, flavourless shell - and with nothing inside it. Well basically anyway. There were perhaps two thin slices of chorizo and I don't remember there being any potato. My friend's omelette was exactly the same. The toast, despite being a bit burnt, was nice - but that's only because it was layered in so much butter.
I gave Cinque a second chance. I had waited a while for a table when visiting with my friend, the cafe was packed and the menu was so extensive - perhaps I had picked a dud.
Mum ordered the zucchini and feta croquettes on rocket and parmesan salad with tomato and basil salsa. The presentation is poor. The croquettes look like packet chicken strips; the salad is equally unexciting. She says that the meal is okay, but only consumes half of it. The dish is quite cheap at $12.90 and, really, she gets what she paid for.
I am a sucker for pork belly, so the obvious choice was the crispy pork belly on white bean puree, Dutch carrots, baby beetroot and red wine reduction ($22.90). What I receive is beautifully presented and instantly increases my expectations of the dish. The carrots are all of equal length, the reduction is drizzled artistically across the plate and roasted baby beetroot dots both ends of one diagonal. The white bean puree oozes out from underneath the carrots upon which sits the golden crackling of my pork belly. All elements of the dish bar the main attraction are spot on. The carrots are soft and contrasted excellently by the smooth white puree, made even better when mixed with the reduction. The roasted beetroot has an intense yet sweet flavour that reminds me of cold winter nights. Unfortunately, the pork belly is almost impossible to eat. It's as if the actual act of consumption is a fight, the pork resists at every chance. Eventually I lose and just give up. The main attraction ruins what could have been an excellent dish.
So Cinque is full of negatives, but surely there must be some amazing dishes to cause such queues? For one thing, their drink menu is amazing. I had never heard of a frosted latte ($4), but am now hooked. The presentation is excellent; the contrast between the coffee brown and crisp white is alluring. Equally defined is the rich coffee flavour and vanilla tones of the "froth." Cinque's other drink offerings almost ascertain that I will be back, but perhaps just for them. There's my favourite childhood biscuit in a drink: the "Iced Vovo," a coffee thickshake and a banana-hazelnut smoothie among others.
From the reviews on Eatability, I get the impression that this place used to be great and has gradually declined in quality. In order for Cinque to survive in the bustling King Street cafe strip, the restaurant really needs to up their game. With their profitable location in the entrance to Dendy Cinemas, once great reputation, creativity (as seen in their drink menu), they have certainly got what it takes.
Cinque, 261 King Street, Newtown
Monday-Sunday, 7.30am til late
Breakfast - Lunch - Dinner
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